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Localities and Habitats - Upper Derwentdale

Upper Derwentdale, June 2003 - Matthew Capper
Photograph Copyright © Matthew Capper

The Upper Derwent Valley is situated in the Peak District National Park, in the west of the SBSG recording area. Howden, Derwent and Ladybower Reservoirs dominate the Valley. Created between 1901 and 1945 to supply the drinking water needs of Sheffield, Nottingham, Derby and the East Midlands, they form the largest area of open water in the National Park. The valley sides are heavily forested. Large areas of conifers were planted when the reservoirs were built, although some original oak woodland does remain. Heather and grass moorland dominate the slopes and edges above such Derwent Edge to the east and Alport Castles, Bleaklow and Barrow Stones to the West.

How to get there.
The Valley can be found on the Ordnance Survey Landranger Sheet 110 and the Outdoor Leisure Series Sheet 1, Peak District - Dark Peak.

Access to the area is from the A57 Manchester road. Ladybower reservoir can be watched from the A57 which runs along its western arm but to reach the Valley proper, turn right after Ashopton viaduct - signposted Derwent Valley at SK19158646.

Facilities.
There are several free car parks on the way up the Valley, but the main facilities (and pay and display parking) are at Fairholmes which has an information centre, toilets, cycle hire and a food kiosk (SK17268932). The road runs all the way to the top of Howden Reservoir but due to a lack of parking, is closed from Fairholmes to all but disabled badge holders on Sundays, summer Saturdays (Easter to mid October) and Bank Holidays. On these days a bus service runs every half hour to the top of the Valley allowing easy access to the more remote areas.

Species that can be encountered.
There is far too much to cover in one day and most birders tend to concentrate on the Valley itself, taking in the woodland and reservoirs rather than the moorland. February to April is the busiest time for visiting birders when birds of prey, notably displaying Goshawk, take centre stage. Birds can be encountered anywhere in the Valley but birders tend to concentrate at Stony Bank Corner (incorrectly called Windy Corner) just after Howden Dam (SK16879275). Early mornings are best and can produce multiple sightings of not just Goshawk but Peregrine, Buzzard, Sparrowhawk, Kestrel and Raven. Other possibilities include Merlin and Hen Harrier and in some winters a Rough Legged Buzzard may take up residence. Ospreys have become a more regular occurrence on passage and Red Kite has now been seen on a few occasions.

The reservoirs are acidic and as such, do not hold a wide variety of wildfowl. Mallard are omnipresent, especially around Fairholmes and Canada Geese can reach plague proportions in the summer. The best chance of seeing any wildfowl in winter is to view the very western end of Ladybower where Goldeneye, Pochard and Tufted Duck should be easily encountered. There are a few pairs of Red-Breasted Merganser present each year and Common Sandpipers also breed. Though often almost birdless, the reservoirs do have a good record for turning up divers and grebes in hard weather and as such, are always worth a check.

A heronry at Win Hill usually has about 6 breeding pairs and Cormorant numbers peak at around 12 birds (usually roosting on the towers of Howden Dam). The streams and rivers are typical of upland areas holding both Dipper and Grey Wagtail.

The woodlands contain all the usual species that you would expect; the feeding station at Fairholmes is a good place to start. Nuthatch is on the increase and Siskin, Redstart, Tree Pipit, Goldcrest, Wood Warbler, Blackcap, Garden Warbler and Woodcock are all regular. The Valley is one of the best sites in the Sheffield area for Spotted Flycatcher and the boxing of key sites should lead to an increase in Pied Flycatcher numbers.

The area vies with Strines as the best site in the region to find Crossbills, especially during the winter months, and both Parrot and Two-barred Crossbills have been recorded.

The moorlands are home to Ring Ouzel, Wheatear, Whinchat, Short-eared Owl, Merlin, Raven, Red Grouse, Curlew, Dunlin, Snipe and Golden Plover, while Lapwing still breed at two sites. Sadly Twite have all but disappeared from the area but Stonechat is definitely a species on the up.

Other points of interest.
The surrounding moorland (especially the edges) are very good for Mountain Hare and also hold Green Hairstreak butterfly and several rare or scarce plants such as Labrador Tea, Cloudberry, Bog Asphodel, Bog Rosemary and Round Leaved Sundew. Historically, the area is best known for its association with the Dambusters of 617 Squadron. On the west side of Derwent Reservoir, the remains of Birchinlee, the village that held the workers who built Howden and Derwent Dams, can be found. A museum detailing the wartime connections and the building of the dams is housed in the west tower of Derwent Dam and is open most Sundays.

To view regular sighting information, visit the Upper Derwent data page.

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